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Build with Rafter and Ridgeboard

© 2014 by Raymond Alexander Kukkee   [caption id="attachment_3081" align="aligncenter" width="640"]Build a Chalet Style shed with Rafter&Ridgeboard Chalet Style shed under construction  with Rafter&Ridgeboard[/caption]  

Carpentry Retro: Build with Rafter and Ridgeboard!

Do you know what rafter&ridgeboard construction is? Most trained carpenters are familiar with rafter and ridgeboard construction  because most homes in the past were built with this essential, reliable, strong construction technique. This timeless, and relatively simple construction method has fallen out of favour because of the convenience and availability of trusses.

The Modern Truss:  Alternative to Rafter and Ridgeboard Stick Framing

A discussion of rafter and ridgeboard stick frame construction would not  be complete without an explanation why the use of trusses has become more popular. The modern home builder today is more likely to use pre-manufactured trusses which incorporate ceiling joists, rafters and engineered web designs into single units which are incredibly strong. Individual rafters, ceiling joists and other web components are all computer-designed and  assembled with steel gussets into a ‘truss’ structure.  The gussets are gang-nailed together, or today, more likely press-assembled  with specially-designed steel gusset plates at the time of manufacture.   An engineered truss  offers rapid installation of the exterior  roof framing  and interior ceiling framing of a home simultaneously.  With trusses, wide spans can be achieved without central load-bearing walls, posts or beams. Much time can be saved in construction by using trusses on large projects. Trusses for a small building such as a shed , play house, or doghouse are not necessary. Even for a modest full-sized home, rafter and ridgeboard construction is fast and efficient and can be achieved by competent carpenters and moderately-skilled DIYers.  Your closest long- established neighbourhood in any city has many homes that demonstrate the method is reliable and strong enough to last for centuries. Building with Rafters and Ridgeboard Rafters are established in opposing matched pairs to form the roof, with each rafter leaning against,  and fastened to a pre-installed ridgeboard at a calculated height with another rafter immediately opposite.  The length of the rafter is calculated using the simple Pythagorean geometry of a right-angled triangle. The chalet style shed in our photo  has a  12:12 pitch slope (45°) and a wide overhang. The pitch of the roof must be decided prior to making any rafter cuts. [caption id="attachment_3084" align="aligncenter" width="640"]Stick framing showing rafters and ridgeboard Stick framing showing rafters and ridgeboard[/caption] The  rafter, after calculating carefully for length, is cut short at the peak to allow for half of the thickness of the chosen ridgeboard which may be a 1x6" or 2"x6 dimensioned lumber. The length of the rafter is calculated from the actual peak to the vertical cut for the bird's mouth notch which is made in the underside of the rafter at the top of the supporting wall. An allowance for the overhang of the rafter is added to the rafter length calculation.  The top end of the rafter is cut vertically to accept the fascia board. The fascia boards  and ridge boards are both measured long enough to extend past the end walls, again to allow for overhang as desired and carry the ends of the ‘fly rafters’ on either end of the building . An  overhanging ‘ladder’  assembly may be built to resting on the  end wall,  or simple ‘lookouts’ may be used  to fasten the fly rafter . *Hint:  Cut one matching pair of rafters (opposing) and try them. If they fit perfectly, use them as patterns for the remaining rafters. In typical stick-framing, (don’t you just love that old carpenter term?)   'horizontal ‘collar ties' would be nailed onto the opposing rafters  close to the apex of the roof for added load-carrying strength. Additional collar ties to and from matching opposing rafters may also be added at the mid-point of the rafter. Doing so substantially improves the strength by creating what is in fact a simple truss.  A diagonal support brace from the wall plate to the peak of the underside of the roof may be installed and fastened to each of the rafters to  establish spacing and  dimensional stability prior to roof sheeting. Following the installation of the rafters, ceiling joists may also be installed if desired. [caption id="attachment_3082" align="aligncenter" width="640"]Symmetry of Rafters Symmetry of Rafters is Elegant Geometry[/caption] See the photos!  The beautiful  symmetry of rafters carefully installed in stick-framing has a certain elegance... Here's an over-simplified diagram. [caption id="attachment_3085" align="aligncenter" width="881"]Rafter and Ridgeboard Construction showing Collar tie Rafter and Ridgeboard Construction showing Collar tie[/caption] Simple, isn’t it? Now you can build that dog house or play house with a storage space. Or a chicken-coop for the egg-laying chooks. Or a whimsical peaked roof for a wishing-well. Or a protective porch over that back door.   The application is endless.   After a small project is complete,  try a larger garden shed too. Apply  the rafter and ridgeboard construction technique to your next building project and you’ll have discovered the joy of genuine stick-framing .  Happy Building!   Is that Incoming I hear?   *Photo credits and diagram © 2013 rakukkee  All rights reserved.    
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Gardening: The Garlic Compendium

© 2012  by Raymond Alexander Kukkee   [caption id="attachment_2025" align="aligncenter" width="584"]a floret of well-developed garlic bulbils Garlic floret containing mature garlic bulbils (seed)  in hand    photo by rakukkee[/caption]

 

Garlic: A Gem with a Social Stigma?

It's a garlic conundrum:  We either love garlic or hate it. Garlic is a gastronomical delight with wonderful flavour and health benefits for those willing to bravely enjoy the pungent, lingering odor of garlic. In this Garlic compendium you'll discover why.

One perhaps must happily ignore the traditional stereotype image of the 'European'  consumer,  garlic snappers', wise and brave people who dared to eat garlic raw for it's inherent health benefits. Even with  it's interesting modern  attributes now well known, garlic remains the  epitome of' bad breath' flavours —even though it was once even considered helpful to repel evil spirits. Braids of this deterrent  were wishfully hung on front doors to chase away zombies, the walking dead, and  other assorted undesirable visitors.  Garlic is gaining popularity, but it is also little wonder deodorized garlic products were invented..

Aside from the daunting negative aspect of lingering odour, garlic offers health benefits not the least of which is the lowering of blood pressure. Garlic acts as an antiseptic, and is loaded with antioxidants, reportedly even helping to  prevent cancer because it contains S-Allycysteine. 

Garlic also happens to be a glorious, irreplaceable vegetable and spice in the kitchen.  That's a good reason to grow garlic in your garden.

What kind of Garlic should we Grow?

There are many varieties of garlic to choose from, different tastes, some very hot and spicy, and some very mild and bland.  There are a large number of garlic varieties, but generally, garlic is divided up into three basic categories:

  • Soft necked Varieties   Typically have a soft, fat neck.
  • Hard necked Varieties   Typically have a hard center stem
  • Porcelains    Typically display a satin-like wrapper on the bulb. 

Garlic:  Is Bigger Better?   You decide.

Elephant garlic is a soft-neck variety, and is very large compared to ordinary varieties of  garlic. Everyone is impressed with the gigantic garlic which displays a huge bulb. It is our human nature to want 'bigger' vegetables Garlic is no exception.  Elephant Garlic  (allium ampeloprasum)  in some circles  might even be considered  to be closer to a leek than it is to garlic.

Elephant garlic is indeed endowed with size, --a single clove can be bigger than a bulb of most varieties, --but the giant lacks the power of, and cannot be substituted with true garlic varieties if called for in a recipe. The giant is substantially milder and is used where only a hint of flavour is desired.   One additional and important point to remember about the the elephant variety  is that like other soft-neck varieties of garlic,  it does not store for an extended period of time.  By comparison, ordinary white varieties are  far smaller,much  stronger in flavour,  and will store far longer periods of time.

The Garlic Compendium: Garlic Varieties

A few varieties are listed following, but across the world, new varieties are being discovered every year by garlic growers and aficionados. Home gardeners will also discover that this unique vegetable may hybridize and acclimatize to your garden location and conditions, eventually producing a strain that is marginally different.

Soft neck  Varieties  (Allium sativum sativum)

Soft neck varieties typically have a thicker, soft neck. The bulbs do not store for periods as long as the hard-necked varieties do.

Inchelium Red         mild flavour, heavy bulbs, 8-15 cloves per bulb

Chengdu                   robust flavour, hot.      

Lorz Italian               strong flavour, hot,  12-19 cloves per bulb, resembles artichoke

Polish White              strong flavour, large bulbs. 8-12 cloves per bulb.

Susanville                  mild flavour, white-skinned variety 10-12 cloves per bulb

HARD NECKED Varieties   (Allium sativum ophioscordon)

Hard-necked varieties mature with a hard center stem. (the root/floret stock).  Hard-necked varieties are more difficult to braid for storage, but store for longer periods of time successfully.   These varieties include the Rocambole ( Italian ) garlic varieties.

Bai Pi Suan                Marbled purple stripe, medium to hot  late variety

Belarus                       Early, purple stripe, 6-9 cloves in each bulb

Bogatyr                      Big cloves, hot flavour, white with 5-7 purple cloves

Fireball                       Purple, a spicy variety, 7-8 cloves with red skins

Jovak                          Late, marbled purple stripe 

Kazakstan                  Early variety, white, 7-8 cloves per bulb

Kyjev  (Kiev)             Larger bulbs, 4 cloves per bulb

Metechi                       Strong flavour,  marbled purple stripe  with  4-7 large cloves/bulb 

Purple Glazer            Purple/silver, strong, lacks after taste, 8-12 bulbs/clove

Purple Trillium           Early variety, smaller, 6-7 cloves/bulb

Siberian                      Strong flavour, 7-8 pink-skinned cloves, ultra hardy

Uzbekistan                  Purple Stripe, large cloves, 2-6 per bulb

Zemo                           Recommended for the north, Spicy, mild heat  2-6 bulbs/clove 

Chinese Purple           An early, vigorous  Asiatic variety  with rich flavour

California White         Characteristics Unknown but reportedly  similar to *Music

 

Porcelain Varieties of Garlic

Porcelain  varieties grow well under diverse conditions including in our colder North American geographic areas.  Strong-flavoured,  Porcelain varieties usually have 4-7  larger cloves and  have a typically satin-colored wrapper on the bulb.  Porcelain garlic varieties are attractive and usually do well in home gardens.

 * Music  is a classic (Heritage) porcelain garlic variety.   It is early, a good producer with mild,  large bulbs, and typically may have 5-6 cloves/bulb. 

Growing Garlic in Your Garden

Garlic grows best in well-prepared, rich soil.  Separate the bulbs into individual cloves, and choose the largest cloves for planting.    Plant garlic 2” deep, 4” apart, late in the fall a couple or three weeks prior to the ground freezing for the best results.  Mulch heavily for winter protection if desired, but garlic tolerates freezing well.

Optimal timing for planting in the fall in your specific area should allow newly-planted garlic to develop excellent root systems, but not break ground with top growth.  Note that fall planting is preferable, but if planting in the spring, plant garlic as soon as the soil can be worked.

In the spring, remove heavy mulch cover and mulch around the plants carefully to retain moisture and suppress weeds. Keep weed-free. When the garlic produces curled floret stems (called scapes) remove them for larger bulb production.  Use the scapes and immature florets in salads and cooking. If you allow  florets to develop,  the small bulbils (garlic “seed” )  can be planted in the fall. Bulbils planted in the fall  will produce small garlic bulbs in the subsequent  growing season. It's a great idea to plant a few bulbils, some second-year bulbs,(which may be small-onion-like)  and full-sized cloves--which can help you develop your own strain of garlic.

Harvesting and Storing Garlic

Harvest garlic when the leaves begin to turn yellow. Pull the garlic bulbs and  lay them on a bench to dry. Remove excessive soil and clean the bulbs.  You can either braid the garlic and hang the braids up to dry, or bench them for a few days, allow the leaves to dry completely, twist the dried leaves off, and store the bulbs in mesh bags in a dry,dry,  cool environment.

Later in the fall, when it is right for your geographical area, choose healthy bulbs, separate the cloves, and again, choose the largest bulbs for fall planting about  2- 3 weeks prior to the ground freezing. If timed correctly, the tops will not break the surface, but for the curious green thumb garlic lover,  excellent root structures can be observed on the planted cloves, empowering spring growth and success.

YES, it is time to plant garlic.

Is that Incoming I hear? 

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