- Wooden pickets or stakes
- Hammer, mallet or sledge hammer
- A carpenter's line and line level
- Garden rake
- A shovel ( a sharp, flat spade is optimal for this application)
- Alternative methods of excavation if the project is large. A tracked mini-excavator can save a lot of time and energy.
- Sand (Construction sand, clean, free of rocks, roots, and trash)
- Gravel (Uniform, free-draining gravel with no large rocks or stones)
- Pavers Concrete pavers of choice including special concrete edgers if available.
- Framing material if used. Framing materials may be dimensioned lumber (2x4), landscaping timbers, concrete retainers, or other commercially available edging.
- Carpenter saw (If using wooden framers)
- Straight edge or suitable screed for leveling gravel and sand
- Galvanized nails or appropriate fasteners, such as screws
- Ground fabric
- Laser level or transit level (if available)
- Vibrating plate packer (If available)
Screeding concrete is shown in the above photo, use the same technique to level gravel or sand layers and follow by compacting with water.
5. Install the ground fabric on top of the gravel to prevent any emergence of sprouts from roots, or weeds. 6. Install the 4" layer of sand. Level and compact it carefully, using a plate packer if available. Screed the surface smooth with a long 2x4" or straightedge, and add or remove sand as required. Hint: * Remember, compacting the base gravel and sand at the time of installation will result in less settling in the future. Inadequate compaction will allow individual pavers to settle unevenly, requiring eventual removal and filling at a later date. Wet the sand for optimal compaction, and add or remove sand as required to ensure proper bedding of individual pavers. 7. Do verify the surface will be as close to level as possible prior to beginning the installation of the pavers. To check the grade of the sand bed, use several pavers laying on the sand bedding as representative markers. Set up the laser level or transit, or use a line level from from paver to paver. A very large patio may have a minor slope to accommodate drainage, depending upon the location and lot characteristics. If the slope will be too steep to be comfortable for the proposed uses, do consider building on two separate levels suitably divided by a step, or in the extreme, include a low retaining wall between the levels if required. (See "The ABC's of Retaining Walls and How to build them") 8. Install treated wood 2x4 frames or landscaping timbers if desired, or approximate the outer location of the edging pavers. Verify all measurements. 9. Lay out the first row of pavers to a line installed across the excavation and proceed with the subsequent rows, ensuring the lines stay straight. 10. Hint: * If you are building a circular patio, install a picket approximately in the center of the site. Using using a line that is equal to the length of the radius of the proposed circle, mark the circle on the ground. If you " lose" the center of the circle later, you can easily find it again. To do so, mark an arc in the sand from one side of the circle to the other side with a string equal in length to the radius by using a picket as the pivot point at any location around the perimeter. Scribe an arc across the circle from one side to the other. Move the picket to the first intersection mark you scribed on the perimeter and scribe another arc from side to side. Where the two arcs intersect in the middle is the precise center of the circle. Lay the correct paver at that point and proceed to lay out pavers as per your patio design. Worthy of Note** * Caution: If you are installing pavers around an important tree, DO take the time to mark a circle around the tree that approximates the drip line of the crown of the tree or close to it. Pave only to that point. **Paving over the roots of a mature tree can, and often does kill the tree. Tree roots also increase in size and will eventually heave or displace the pavers if the tree survives having it's roots paved over. Plan on using loose mulches around the tree, or plan for grass or flower beds close to the tree trunk instead. 11. Bed each paver unit with a firm tap from a rubber mallet as you go. If any pavers are low, remove them and add more sand. The objective is to have the top surface uniform in height when fully seated and compacted. 12. When all of the pavers are installed, pour sand on the surface and brush it into the cracks with a stiff-bristled broom. (Depending on paver design Water the patio lightly to help wash the sand into the cracks if necessary). 13. If you do have a vibrating plate packer available, run the plate packer at low speed carefully over the finished surface if possible. Doing so will help level the pavers, compact the sand in the joints, and reduce settling in the future. 14. Complete edging, and backfill any spaces around the perimeter. 15. Install landscaping, sod, bushes, or walkways as desired. Now you can haul out the barbecue and set it up. Have a patio-warming party. It's time to put your new patio to good use. Relax and enjoy! ## Is that Incoming I hear? Photo credits Wikimedia Commons